About my Bromoil Print process
After so many experiments, I chose ILFORD multigrade FB Cooltune 8 inches x10 inches to do bromoil print finally.
Firstly, do conventional darkroom printing in the normal way.
It's worth noting that a fibre based bromide paper takes much more time to be washed carefully than resin coated paper.
It needs to be washed roughly for 5 minutes in preparation, then sunk into the promotion solution for 10 minutes, and at last washed in running water for 30 minutes twice.
It's worth noting that a fibre based bromide paper takes much more time to be washed carefully than resin coated paper.
It needs to be washed roughly for 5 minutes in preparation, then sunk into the promotion solution for 10 minutes, and at last washed in running water for 30 minutes twice.
STEP 2 Bleach Tan
Before bleaching, soak the print in water for about 5 minutes.
Then place it in a solution of 1 part bleach-tan stock solution and 10 parts water for 10 minutes.
Then place it in a solution of 1 part bleach-tan stock solution and 10 parts water for 10 minutes.
Wash the print thoroughly and fix it for 5 minutes, wash again and dry.
This is then known as the matrix and can be stored indefinitely, ready for inking.
The gelatin is tanned proportionally to the amount of silver contained.
The gelatin which contained lots of silver (the shadows) hardens and won’t absorb water. As a result, it won’t repel the oily ink.
Conversely, less silver in an area of the image (the highlights) means less hardening, more water absorption and more repelling of the oily ink.
This way, an image can be formed, where silver content is progressively replaced by ink.
The gelatin is tanned proportionally to the amount of silver contained.
The gelatin which contained lots of silver (the shadows) hardens and won’t absorb water. As a result, it won’t repel the oily ink.
Conversely, less silver in an area of the image (the highlights) means less hardening, more water absorption and more repelling of the oily ink.
This way, an image can be formed, where silver content is progressively replaced by ink.
STEP 3 Inking
Finally, we get to the inking step.
I soaked the print for about 10 minutes or even more to get the paper expanded.
Wipe off all surplus moisture, make sure there aren’t any droplets of water left.
I used a Japanese lithograph ink called SWALLOW.
I found cosmetic brushes are very easy to use. It’s so soft that can ink evenly and won’t damage the gelatin.
Wipe off all surplus moisture, make sure there aren’t any droplets of water left.
I used a Japanese lithograph ink called SWALLOW.
I found cosmetic brushes are very easy to use. It’s so soft that can ink evenly and won’t damage the gelatin.
Still, the inking part is very hard to control. It needs patience.
When too much ink is put onto it, the print will get muddy and I always clean the print in the water with a sponge and start again from the beginning.
When inking is completed leave to dry for a couple of days and then finish.
When inking is completed leave to dry for a couple of days and then finish.
At last, I scanned all the prints.
They were originally inked by deep blue pigments. But after trying to use the automatic color correction function of scanner, they present what they are now.
They were originally inked by deep blue pigments. But after trying to use the automatic color correction function of scanner, they present what they are now.
Reference：
https://www.alternativephotography.com/introduction-to-oil-and-bromoil-printing/
https://www.kerenor.jp/photography/bromoil/